This machine has long been problematic so when this came up I used it as an opportunity to show you guys how to change the thermistor of my hot bed.
Hello everybody and welcome to another repair video. In today’s video I’ll be showing you how I was able to replace the thermistor on my 3D printer and finally fix the ongoing issues with my printer. Now a quick disclaimer that this video wasn’t sponsored by Anycubic and to do this modification at your own risk.
So before anyone asks, I’ve been having issues with this machine for a very long time. Unlike my first I3 Mega, this one has been prone to stopping randomly, and although I’ve replaced quite a few components and updated the firmware the issues have persisted. While most of the issues were from prints failing to complete on this occasion things were quite different. The print bed temperatures were fluctuating quite dramatically which was preventing the print from starting. I had replaced the motherboard in the past, updated the firmware, replaced the SD card reader and re-checked the wiring, so I was fairly certain that these weren’t the issues. So I unscrewed the build plate and began double-checking the resistance with a multimeter.
The very first thing I noticed was that the thermistor was completely black which could be normal however I still decided to double-check. So the resistance rating for most of these thermistors is normally 100k, but I was reading some strange numbers. Also, you’ll want to make sure that the print bed is fully cooled down prior to trying to take your measurements since this seems to affect the readouts. I also noticed that the readings weren’t the same once re-soldered together so that’ll be something you want to keep in mind.
While soldering, I noticed that the old solder wasn’t coming off easily even when adding flux. I suspected that the heat bed was helping to defuse the heat, so I preheated the surface, but that wasn’t enough. I ended up adding some fresh solder to the connections along with flux which then allowed me to use solder wick to remove the material from the connection points. Once I removed the old thermistor I noticed that there was a small hole where the thermistor was located. With the black coating it’s difficult to see so here’s a small diagram to show you what it looked like.
I did need to shape the wires slightly to make sure that they would align correctly however everything soldered together nicely. After testing it the resistance seemed better than before, but I wasn’t entirely sure that it had worked since i wasn’t getting the same results as when I tested the thermistor prior to soldering it into place. I decided to put the machine back together and do a final test.
When everything was put back together I began running the test print. I had outfitted this machine with a 0.8 nozzle since it was originally used for printing large functional parts. The first print didn’t look good in the beginning however the temperatures quickly stabilized and stopped fluctuating irregularly after the first print. All following prints had stable temperatures. This also got me thinking about what might be the issue with this machine. When I began hitting the reset bottom for the machine all issues stopped when starting a new print. So I began to experiment with the G-code a bit and after trying out the G999 command and a couple of others I decided to compare it with another machines settings. This is where it discovered that there was some extra lines of code and decided to copy and past the end G-code from my CR10-V3 to see if this made a difference. Sure enough, after over a year of being problematic the problem finally seems to be fixed. Or was it? Unfortunately once I started a larger print, I began running into the same issues as before although at least my print bed temperatures were correct this time. I will be posting the G-code in the description below just in case it does end up working for you.
Having seen a lot of issues with the wiring hubs of this machine I will begin trying to rewire it in an effort to get the machine working properly. Make sure to keep an eye out for the follow-up video when I undergo this process since I will be including a price breakdown as well.
So was this repair worth it? I’d say yes considering that the thermistors are fairly inexpensive now days especially the one’s which are compatible with the Anycubic printer. In case some of you were wondering, I bought the NTC 3950 100k version at the time from Amazon however if you’re worried about compatibility issues and don’t want to risk having to change your firmware settings you may which to order it from the main Anycubic website. After over a year of having a problematic machine, I finally seem to have one that works on par with my expectations.
Ever wonder just how difficult it was to add automatic bed leveling to your CR10 V3? In this video I cover the in’s an out’s of this process and give you a final verdict on who this upgrade might be for. Make sure to check out the main review for this machine at this link CR10 V3 Final Verdict
Hello everybody and welcome to another review. So in today’s video, we’ll go over the BLT touch installation for the CR10-V3 and whether or not this is worth getting. Before we begin, I’d like to make it clear that this review was in no way sponcered and that I had purchased the BLT with my own money at the same time as the CR10-V3 and this represents my own opinion on what I’ve experienced.
In order to do this upgrade you’re going to need know a couple of things. Now in most cases when you first order your machine, it came with a usb stick which had everything that you needed to get started including the firmware upgrade that you’ll need. If you don’t have this however, that’s fine since it’s also readily available through the main website of Creality.com. The firmware comes pre-compiled which is nice however the zip file has some extra character’s which prevents the operating system from recognizing the files. So the first thing you’ll want to do is remove the extra character’s after the .zip. At this point you can then extract the files within the folder where you’ll be treated to the instructional PDF’s as well as the firmware.
Before flashing the firmware you’ll need to connect your computer to the 3D printer and the required cable doesn’t come with the machine so you’ll need to obtain one prior to installation. Furthermore, you’ll want to make sure that your chosen slicer software is closed was well as any other flashing software such as Xloader, arduino or pronterface. In order to do this upgrade, you will need to use the included Creality Sliser since simply inserting an SD card with the firmware will not work or using Cura and Xloader. This software is also available through the main website. While you might be able to use a custom bootloader, this wasn’t something that was tested at the time since the upgrade worked with the included software.
Once you have the Creality Slicer open, you’ll need to make the following changes. Go to File, Preferences and change the printer window type to “Pronterface UI” then select “Ok”. Then go to File, Machine Settings and change the Serial Port to “COM3” then the baudrate to 115200 at which point you can select “Ok”. Then go to Machine, install custom firmware and navigate to the blt touch firmware that you intend to install. In my case I renamed the file however you’s will most likely be called CR-10 V2TF220.127.116.11BLTouchV3.1.
Give the machine a little time to finish the upload at which point your ready to do the rest of the installation process.
To begin, we no longer require the Z axis Endstop so for this reason we’re going to remove this so that it doesn’t interfer. The next stage is the install the BLT touch itself. You’ll want to put the first two screws going upwards from the bottom of the sensor on the side which you see the 3 holes. Only the two holes will will have screws for them. Make sure to add the connector cable to the BLT since it will be difficult to access this once it’s installed fullly. After you can then install the remainder two screws to the appropriate location on the nossel housing. Remove the XE Transfer Interface Housing so that you have access to the female pin header and attach the connector to it. You can then reatach the housing to complete the assembly.
The next stage is to setup the BLT touch leveling and first we will do a basic bed leveling to determine the low and high points on the machine. To do this, go to Prepare, Bed leveling and allow the machine to complete the probing. We now need to set up the Z offset which is currently set higher to ensure that the bed isn’t damaged. Go to Prepare, Move Axis, Move Z, Move 10mm where you’ll set this to 00.00. Then go to Move 1mm and lower this the first couple of increments but not to far otherwise you’ll hit the bed. You’ll then want to move it 0.1mm at a time to get it to the appropriate height. Make sure to write down this value since you’ll need this latter. You can use a piece of of paper to help ensure that you have the proper distance if that’s what you’re currently used to using. Go back up the menue hierarchy and go to Control, initialize EEPROM where once you enter this menue you’ll get a warning beep. Go to the Motion, Z Offset and set the number that you wrote down here. Go back one menue and choose Store Settings at which point the machine will beep another warning. Navigate out to the main menu where you can then start your first test print. I’m using a model which was created by Bnimon on Thingiverse Since they created a file for the different nozzle widths and I had changed mine to a 0.8. I will be including the link in the discription below if you would like to use this yourself.
Make sure to keep the wire slack otherise the connector will get removed while printing. With all these steps completed it was now time to do a test print and these were the results. For any of you who’ve been doing 3D printing for a while now, you’ll have an appreaciation as to how long it can take to clean up a model such as this. In this case it took well over an hour just to remove the supports and I ended up getting large chucks half accross my room. So ya, I’d highly recommend some eye protection depending on the filament that you using and unless you have very calloused hands you may also want to use gloves. Over all however, the final model turned out pretty good considering it was printed with a 0.8 nozzle and 0.5 layer height.
So was this mod worth the effort. In my case I would say that it was since I rarely swap out my nozzle however if you swap out your nozzle more often then this may not be faster then simply hand leveling the bed although it is more accurate. So like most cases, it will depend on your use case but I would suggest adding this if you have the oppertunity since it is quite useful.
In this video I will be unboxing the CR10-V3 3D printer by Creality to see just how easy it was get up and running. I will also give some tips and tricks on the assembly to make it easier for other's to do as well. I purchased this video for my production process since it's a direct extruder design and is more suitable for flexible filaments. The build format is also quite a bit larger than my existing machines which is why I found this to be a suitable addition to my prototyping studio. I will be doing a full review of the machine in the future so please keep an eye for this.
Hello everybody and welcome to another video. In today’s video I will be taking a first look at a new 3D printer which I haven’t as of yet heard much about. I am planning on making a follow up which will be the full review however today I’ll go over the assembly and first impressions that I have with the machine. I bought this machine online soon after it was available and have been taking a closer look at it’s capabilities. This video was in no way sponsored, I purchased this machine in order to fit the requirements for some of my client work and decided on this model.
The packaging was extremely well done which was a relief given the shipping company which was used to deliver my printer. One thing that is important to note is that the support bars are hidden in a compartment in the foam so you’ll want to make sure to find those pieces otherwise you won’t benefit from the rigid frame design. If you pick up the foam pieces you’ll notice that one is heavier than the other’s and this is where the compartment is located.
Once opened, you should have all the materials that you need to assemble this machine however at the time of this recording the BLT touch was back-order therefore I will be including this in the follow up video instead. The user manual is very well designed with a parts breakdown list and diagram in color which is always a good sign. The company has also been very good in providing instructional tutorial within their website in order to help with problem solving.
Before you begin assembly always take all of the components and place them out so that you can make sure you have all of the required parts. This is simple but important step before you begin working on putting any machine together. Lay the frame on top after you’ve turned the couplings upwards to give yourself some more room. When attaching the main bolts for the frame, I would recommend moving the machine to the side of the table so that you can see underneath without damaging any of the components. I loosely tighten these screws until I have them all placed at which point I tighten them fully. If you over tighten then you could risk bending or stripping the threads so they should be tight enough that they won’t come lose but not so tight that you see your tool bending with the force.
For the pull rod, you’ll first need to join two of the poles together using the provided double ended screw. You’ll want to partially turn in one portion of the component. For the second bar you’ll want to hold it with you thumb to prevent it from spinning while you attach the second pole. You’ll then attach the live bolt to either ends of the joined pole. Make sure to add the bolt onto the live bolt since this will help lock the bar into place. In my initial assembly I overlooked this portion and had to fix this latter on. Make sure to use the Wrench to tighten the bolt afterwards. Take one of the screws and place this through the live bolt hole while placing the washer on the other opposing side. Screw this first into the bottom hole. In my case this hole was covered with plastic caps to help protect them so you’ll need to remove these before completing the assembly.
Next I pre-threaded the L connector for the top of the frame making sure to keep these a lose as possible. These turn around in the grove to lock themselves into place if put in correctly. Double check to make sure that they’re turned the right way after you’ve put these into place. I then attached the Live bolt into the frame in the same manner as the bottom of the rod.
Z end stop goes on the side where the two screw holes are and with the switch facing upwards. The company also provide a replacement switch in case it’s needed in the future so make sure that you store this in a safe location.
I made sure to change the correct input voltage to my areas requirements which for me is 115.
The next part was to attach the filament run out detector. This portion has an arrow so that you know the proper orientation for this part. I mounted it with the arrow facing to the front so that the light is visible when turned on. As the for the filament spool, I mounted it differently from what was shown in the diagram. From personal experience I’ve had some spool which could get caught on edges so choose the smoother side as the contact area. The filament run out sensor seems to have quite a bit of friction and may cause issues during printing. I made sure to mount it as close as possible while still having enough room for a full sized spool of filament. If this is your first printer and you don’t have a full spool keep in mind you will need to adjust this latter since the provided one is extremely small in comparison.
With the basic assembly completed, I then connected the power cable and build plate connector to the power box. Following the labeling of the cables, I connected the two Z axis connector and the Z stop sensor. Afterwards I proceed to connect the Y axis motor, XE Transfer Interface, YZ Transfer Interface, filament run out sensor, Extruder Motor and the cable guide by following the instructions and labels provided. When I received my shipment the cable guide was attached to the frame however this came off during the unboxing so make sure to check carefully to ensure that it’s installed before finishing. Also it’s very important to give the cable enough slack in order to move completely to the back to prevent any undo strain. This guide is important in preventing the premature wear of the cables which is a common issue with printers.
With the machine put together I it was now time to print the model that was provided with the printer. It’s always a good idea to print the test model before doing anything else since this can help diagnose issues more quickly. In my case the print came out almost flawless however because of the choice of filament it was difficult to see the imperfections along the surface. Once this print was completed, I then swapped out the nozzle to check how it printed with a larger nozzle size. I must point out that changing the nozzle is somewhat awkward if you don’t know how to do it properly. This is something which I will discuss in the full review of the machine afterwards. With the nozzle changed out, I then began tweaking my settings until I had something which worked fairly well. I’ll be doing quite a bit more tweaks before I finish this piece off but for now this is how the print came out.