In this video I address the unsupported cables for the hot end assembly to help prevent their premature wear and tear. This is a simple mod that should help keep this machine running for much longer in the future.
Hello everybody and welcome to the 3D printer Modding series. Today we’ll be addressing the issue with the cable for the hot end assembly of the CR10 V3. If any of you may have noticed the cable connections don’t have any support and there’s a high probability that the movement will cause a failure in the connection. The cables which connect to the hub are also another potential issue since they don’t have any support either. Since I would like this machine to last as long as possible, I will be making a couple of modifications to address these issues today. As always, do this modifications at your own risk and I’m in now way responsible for any damages which may occur.
So like most modifications this one went through a couple of alliterations before a final version was determined. Since the metal supports for the xz hub were the same design as the V2 model I decided to use this to my advantage. I initially designed a mount which surrounded the cabling however this proved both difficult to mount as well as risky to force the cable within the support. It was for this reason that I switched to a open design which allowed me to use Zip ties to fasten the cables to the guide. For the hot end assembly I knew I wanted something which simply slipped over the direct extruder motor. After taking precise measurements I created a box like shape to a encompassed the motor while still keeping as much of it open to prevent overheating issues. I also designed it to wrap around the connector so I would able to add zip ties as well. Learning from my previous mistake, I made sure to keep an open design.
After my first test I did discover one drawback which I hadn’t initially taken into account. While testing just how high up I could move the printer in the Z axis I found out that my modification did remove some of it’s Z height. Wanting to reduce this drawback as much as possible I then redesigned both the parts to help resolve this. With the new design I was able to comfortably reach a total Z height of 395. I also made sure to better support the cables with an extra bowden tube that I had lying around however you may be able to use a spiral cable wrap instead should you have some available. Very important to note is the fact that you’ll have to move the support bar on the left hand side of the machine to accommodate the increased size of the nozzle assembly. To do this, you’ll want to completely remove the top portions and bottom portions. For the bottom you’ll want to add some washer’s to increase the distance at the base. You’ll then want to move the nozzle assembly as far up as you can while also moving as far left as possible. This will make it easier to gage where to place the new connection points. In my case, I hand to realign the live bolt and move the pull rod connector over so that only one support bolt was still in place. Instead of using the spacer which came for the live bolt, I removed this and replaced it with a M5x12 screw. As long as this is properly tightened you should have no problems getting this secured in place.
With this completed it was now time to change the Z height in Cura and begin a test print. As expected the test prints were very similar to those done previously. Since I had a 0.8 nozzle these were the results that I ended up getting. Since I mostly use the larger machines for functional parts or prototypes I often need these to complete at a farter rate.0.2
Although I could leave this machine without these additions, this will hopefully help increase it’s longevity. As someone who uses their machines quite often this is an important feature to have since they’re an important business investment. For those of you who use yourself for both personal and professional use, I hope this also allows you to keep your machines working for a much longer time period.
In this video I take the existing filament sensor which has a habit of catching and replace it with a modified version which works a lot better. I go through the installation and design process of how this modification was made.
Hello everybody and welcome to the 3D printer Modding series. In today’s video we’ll take the notorious filament runout sensor that comes with the CR10 V3 and modify it to be more fluid in how it lets filament pass through it. I also have a follow up video which addresses a proper cable guide for the hot end so keep an eye our for that video in the future. As always, please do this mods at your own risk and I’m in no way responsible for any damages that may occur.
So as i mentioned in my previous review of the Creality CR10 V3, the sensor was very much holding back the potential for this machine. Because of the initial design for the filament intake, it caused a severe amount of friction to occur which in some instances prevented the proper flow of filament through the nozzle. Before trying to create a new housing i did run a test to see if I could simply replace the existing sensor with one that I had lying around however this produced an error which prevented the printing process from starting. Instead of modifying the firmware, I decided to change the housing which I believed to be the main cause of the issue. The electronics themselves were very well designed so doing this also make this modification easier for other’s to undertake.
So the very first step was to the remove the existing component and open it up to see what was inside. Luckily, this was fairly easy to accomplish because of how it was assembled on the machine. Once you remove the 4 screws holding it in place you are immediately greeted with the electronic components. To make my life easier, I did decide to remove the filament stand, however this is not a necessary step.
Once the electronics were visible I removed the two screws holding them in place so that I could get a better look at the housing that already existed on the machine. The first step was the remodel the area where the sensor would be sitting and once that portion as completed I was then able to focus on the entryway for the filament. The issue with the stock version is that the angles were too sharp and this was what was causing the large amount of friction. Also the alignment was slightly off and this caused the filament to get stuck in the switch portion of the mechanism. In order to address these issues, I created a gradual entry way for the filament the pass through and changed the point where the filament intersected with the switch. This produced a much more gradual entrance which reduced the friction significantly.
With this out of the way it was now time to create the connection points in which the two halves of the sensor would meet and combine to make the shell. I then added the bolt indents to further make this easier to assemble. So after a couple of prototypes I finally had the final version that I would be installing on my machine.
IF you decide to install this one your own machine you’ll need to do the following. You’ll need to add the two screws to hold the switch in place after which you’ll add the screws and bolts for the housing. In my case I only had longer screws available so I ended up only installing two of these across from each other. This also allowed me to place a much longer screw going in the opposite direction to attach this to the sensor mount. I added a bolt behind it just to make sure that it didn’t come off latter on. With that completed I installed it onto the machine and quickly tested it with both flexible and PLA filament. After doing my first print I can say that it’s still working quite well and I’m happy with the results. This was the resulting test cube which was printed with a 0.8 nozzle and scaled to 130%.
Although this may seem like a simple mod I found this to be one in which I appreciate the most since the friction being produced has caused my filament to break in mid print on certain occasions. Since the filament sensor is mounted away from the nozzle it doesn’t register a break in the filament and keeps on printing which has been a issue in the past. With modification in place it should prevent this from reoccurring in the future.
Ever wonder just how difficult it was to add automatic bed leveling to your CR10 V3? In this video I cover the in’s an out’s of this process and give you a final verdict on who this upgrade might be for. Make sure to check out the main review for this machine at this link CR10 V3 Final Verdict
Hello everybody and welcome to another review. So in today’s video, we’ll go over the BLT touch installation for the CR10-V3 and whether or not this is worth getting. Before we begin, I’d like to make it clear that this review was in no way sponcered and that I had purchased the BLT with my own money at the same time as the CR10-V3 and this represents my own opinion on what I’ve experienced.
In order to do this upgrade you’re going to need know a couple of things. Now in most cases when you first order your machine, it came with a usb stick which had everything that you needed to get started including the firmware upgrade that you’ll need. If you don’t have this however, that’s fine since it’s also readily available through the main website of Creality.com. The firmware comes pre-compiled which is nice however the zip file has some extra character’s which prevents the operating system from recognizing the files. So the first thing you’ll want to do is remove the extra character’s after the .zip. At this point you can then extract the files within the folder where you’ll be treated to the instructional PDF’s as well as the firmware.
Before flashing the firmware you’ll need to connect your computer to the 3D printer and the required cable doesn’t come with the machine so you’ll need to obtain one prior to installation. Furthermore, you’ll want to make sure that your chosen slicer software is closed was well as any other flashing software such as Xloader, arduino or pronterface. In order to do this upgrade, you will need to use the included Creality Sliser since simply inserting an SD card with the firmware will not work or using Cura and Xloader. This software is also available through the main website. While you might be able to use a custom bootloader, this wasn’t something that was tested at the time since the upgrade worked with the included software.
Once you have the Creality Slicer open, you’ll need to make the following changes. Go to File, Preferences and change the printer window type to “Pronterface UI” then select “Ok”. Then go to File, Machine Settings and change the Serial Port to “COM3” then the baudrate to 115200 at which point you can select “Ok”. Then go to Machine, install custom firmware and navigate to the blt touch firmware that you intend to install. In my case I renamed the file however you’s will most likely be called CR-10 V2TF22.214.171.124BLTouchV3.1.
Give the machine a little time to finish the upload at which point your ready to do the rest of the installation process.
To begin, we no longer require the Z axis Endstop so for this reason we’re going to remove this so that it doesn’t interfer. The next stage is the install the BLT touch itself. You’ll want to put the first two screws going upwards from the bottom of the sensor on the side which you see the 3 holes. Only the two holes will will have screws for them. Make sure to add the connector cable to the BLT since it will be difficult to access this once it’s installed fullly. After you can then install the remainder two screws to the appropriate location on the nossel housing. Remove the XE Transfer Interface Housing so that you have access to the female pin header and attach the connector to it. You can then reatach the housing to complete the assembly.
The next stage is to setup the BLT touch leveling and first we will do a basic bed leveling to determine the low and high points on the machine. To do this, go to Prepare, Bed leveling and allow the machine to complete the probing. We now need to set up the Z offset which is currently set higher to ensure that the bed isn’t damaged. Go to Prepare, Move Axis, Move Z, Move 10mm where you’ll set this to 00.00. Then go to Move 1mm and lower this the first couple of increments but not to far otherwise you’ll hit the bed. You’ll then want to move it 0.1mm at a time to get it to the appropriate height. Make sure to write down this value since you’ll need this latter. You can use a piece of of paper to help ensure that you have the proper distance if that’s what you’re currently used to using. Go back up the menue hierarchy and go to Control, initialize EEPROM where once you enter this menue you’ll get a warning beep. Go to the Motion, Z Offset and set the number that you wrote down here. Go back one menue and choose Store Settings at which point the machine will beep another warning. Navigate out to the main menu where you can then start your first test print. I’m using a model which was created by Bnimon on Thingiverse Since they created a file for the different nozzle widths and I had changed mine to a 0.8. I will be including the link in the discription below if you would like to use this yourself.
Make sure to keep the wire slack otherise the connector will get removed while printing. With all these steps completed it was now time to do a test print and these were the results. For any of you who’ve been doing 3D printing for a while now, you’ll have an appreaciation as to how long it can take to clean up a model such as this. In this case it took well over an hour just to remove the supports and I ended up getting large chucks half accross my room. So ya, I’d highly recommend some eye protection depending on the filament that you using and unless you have very calloused hands you may also want to use gloves. Over all however, the final model turned out pretty good considering it was printed with a 0.8 nozzle and 0.5 layer height.
So was this mod worth the effort. In my case I would say that it was since I rarely swap out my nozzle however if you swap out your nozzle more often then this may not be faster then simply hand leveling the bed although it is more accurate. So like most cases, it will depend on your use case but I would suggest adding this if you have the oppertunity since it is quite useful.