This guide includes diagrams, FEP sheet replacement instructions, Parts and motherboard explanations, troubleshooting tricks, cleaning, maintenance, settings, firmware + Bonus Resin Scoop and much more.


While older models had a glass protective layer above the LCD, new modern day machines have opted to no longer include this for the most part.  So in today’s article, we’ll be going over how to add a screen protector to help protect the LCD from any damage which may occur. As always, undertake this at your own risk.

If your FEP sheet is punctured, you could potentially damage the LCD screen with either a resin leak or solidified resin shard and since the replacement LCD screen is well over a $100 it does make this initial investment something worth looking at.  Now there are multiple companies which produce a product similar to this one, but for this article I will be focusing on using the one I purchased.

There are some pretty important things to know about this installation.  The main one is that many use static electricity to hold it into place, which is very effective and makes it easy to remove.  There is one thing which comes as a result of this ease of use.  This protective film will attract dust extremely easily, and I haven’t yet found a way to clean it as yet.  The good news, however, is that small bubbles along the surface shouldn’t affect the print quality.

This package comes with a squeegee and micron cloth, which you’ll need for this application.  Although the instructions are brief they are functional, but I have found some additional techniques which should be considered.

Assuming that you’ve already removed the vat, you’re going to clean the screen’s surface with a micron cloth, getting it as clean as possible prior to the installation. The protective film has two protective sheets on either side, each of which is labelled according to their use. Take the applicator and wrap the micron cloth around it and have it at the ready.  You’re going to peel only part of the protective layer, which is labelled “Peel off this BEFORE application”.  You’re going to peel just enough so that you can slowly remove the protective layer as you begin to apply it.  Doing this helps keep additional dust from being attracted to the surface, while you attempt to keep out as many bubbles as possible.  This is the side which faces downwards onto the screen, so make sure to line it up with the screw holes of the machine.  DO NOT attempt to remove any of these particles with tweezers or your finger’s.  Doing this, will leave fingerprints along the surface or even worse, damage the surface with indentations.  As you slowly peel back the protective layer, you’re going to use the applicator to gently push it down into the screen and push out potential bubbles as you go.  Although you’ll probably still have a couple which remain after the application process is complete, these shouldn’t cause any issues with your prints.

Remove the final protective layer for the screen protector, and you’re ready to begin printing once you’ve re-levelled the print bed.  While installing this protector, I found that the majority of the bubbles were caused by dust which had made its way in during the application process.  So turning fans off and allowing the dust to settle in the room prior to its application may help when you do this yourself.  I also used a lens air blower to blow off any remaining particles to keep from touching the surface further.

If you have this machine, you’re probably going to want to address the issue with the build plate and vat knobs, so make sure to check out this ARTICLE on how to upgrade these yourself.  Thank you for watching, and I hope to see you guys again.  Thank you and take care.

Personal Notes


  • Protect LCD screen from being punctured
  • Protects against resin leaks

Things to watch out for

  • Make sure to peel off the 2 protective layers
  • Do not attempt to remove particles from protection film
  • Sticky side faces down (normally labelled)

One of the common tasks when owning a resin printer is the replacement of the FEP sheet.  While this something which all users will have to do at some point or another, many new to 3d printing find this task daunting at first.  Today we’ll be covering the process for the Mono X, but this process is similar with all resin printers.  As always, I’m in no way responsible if any damages may occur.

In resin printers, the FEP sheet is a consumable that requires periodic replacement over time.  Generally speaking, as long as you take proper care of your FEP sheet, you shouldn’t have to do this maintenance as often, but due to either print failures or the FEP becoming cloudy over time, it does require replacement at some point.  Most machines, use a very similar structure as this one does, so the information that you’ll see here should still apply to your machine.  On this particular machine, the LCD screen isn’t covered by glass or a protector out of the box, and therefore you should consider adding a Screen Protector as well.  If you don’t plan on doing so, then regular FEP sheet inspections should be a requirement for your machine.

To begin, we’ll first need to get a replacement FEP sheet and I personally prefer to order the ones which are recommended by the manufacturer of the machine, however it is also important to note that new developments in the technology are ongoing and new releases may become available in the future.  In this case, I’m using the official replacement that’s provided by Anycubic.

Remove your vat and drain out any excess resin, making sure to properly clean the vat prior to continuing to the following step.  Place a paper towel from which you can place your vat onto.  You’re going to need a bottle cap to use as a spacer, so make sure to have this handy for the future steps.  I find that the bottle caps of a standard soda bottle are the perfect size. 

There are two types of hex screwdrivers for this replacement.  A size 2 and 2.5 will be needed for this particular machine, with the 2.5 being used to remove the first set of screws.  With these removed, you can then use the screwdriver to lift the FEP sheet frame out of the vat’s base.  From here, you’re going turn this over and remove the second set of screws.  At this point, we can give both the vat and the frame another cleanup to remove any remaining resin residue.  In the footage that you see here, I’ve already done this process several times to remove all resin from the surface of the vat and frame, but if you’ve just done a quick cleanup you’re going to want to keep wearing gloves while doing the remaining steps.  

Place the bottle cap in the centre of the FEP frame after having lined up the FEP sheet and frames.  While holding the frame down, you are going to use a pair of tweezers to create a small puncture in the FEP sheet where you are going to place your first screw.  I always recommend doing the four corner’s first before doing the remaining.   You can use your finger’s as a support to help better control the amount of pressure while puncturing the FEP sheet.  The aim is to simply start the hole and not to go all the way down.  After doing the four corners, you can then work your way around the frame and attach the remaining screws.    Once completed, you want to turn the FEP frame over and place it into the vat base.  Once again, you’re going to create a small puncture for the screws, making sure to start at each corner.  Only screw the screws in enough to hold them in place, and work diagonally from each other until all of them are in position.  Slowly moving diagonally, you incrementally tighten these slowly down to ensure that you have even pressured.  Doing this will prevent buckling from occurring in one section of the FEP sheet.  Do this until you reach the bottom, but once again don’t over tighten.

The FEP sheet is attached, but we now have some extra material sticking out around the edges.  To remove this, we’re going to follow the out edges of the Vat frame with a cutting blade.  To keep from leaving smudges on the surface, we’re going to place a piece of paper towel under our hand while carefully following this edge.  You shouldn’t have to pull it off if you’ve cut all the way through the material, so take your time when doing this step.  Remove any leftover material that has the potential to damage the screen and carefully inspect it prior to re-installing the vat.

If you’re looking to add a Screen Protector, you’re going to want to see the following video since it’s a great upgrade that will help protect your screen, especially since this machine doesn’t have a protective layer above the LCD.

Compare to many other 3D printers, the CR10 Smart features causes the levelling process to be quite different.  This can cause quite a bit of frustration among new user’s, so we’ll be going over the process in today’s article.

To start things off, we’ll first need to lower the build plate prior to starting the levelling process.  From the main menu, you’ll go to “Settings” + “Level” and wait for the hot end to probe the centre of the build plate.  From Here, you’ll use the up and down arrows to set the probe offset, and in this case we want the nozzle to just barely touch the build plate or be slightly raised if it crashes into the surface.  Now, this machine doesn’t allow for extreme fine-tuning of this feature, so we’ll go through some other methods later on.  By selecting any of the corner numbers, the hot end assembly will automatically move to that location, and you’ll be able to adjust the levelling nut for the that corner of the build plate.  Repeat this procedure for each of the corner’s making sure to double-check these before moving on to the next step.

With the basic levelling completed, you’ll now do an auto bed levelling.  This creates a levelling mesh that is retained in the machine’s memory and allows it to compensate for an uneven surface.  For this to be effective you’ll first want to preheat the nozzle and the build plate making sure that the nozzle is clean from any debris.  Once this is complete, you can then double-check your print levelling by doing a short print which fits the build surface.  For this example, I will be using a custom file that I’ve created, but you can use anything that similar.  I designed this one to print in a continuous loop depending on the number of brim lines, so I will be using this to my advantage.  This file will be available along with the other support files HERE.  While the printer is moving, we can now adjust the offset if necessary to make sure that it doesn’t crash into the bed but has the correct height.  If you still have to make additional adjustments, then this is where your slicer settings and start G-code will come into play.

If you have problems with the initial layer being too high off the build plate, you can compensate slightly through your slicer settings.  For those new to 3D printing, this might be the least daunting option.  For this example, I’m using Cura, but most slicer’s will have an option which is similar to this one.   Under the Material’s Tab, you’ll go to the “Initial Layer Flow” and increase this slightly.  Since the build surface is so textured on this machine, it does allow for more flexibility with your flow rate, but I wouldn’t increase this too much otherwise the first layer will lift onto itself because it’ll be over-compressed.  If it’s more than 10% higher than your actual flow rate, then you’ll want to use the following method instead.

You can go to “Settings” + “Configure Settings and Visibility” + “Printers” + “Machine Settings” where you can expand the Start G-Code Window.  From here you can modify this line “G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up” to adjust the amount if needed.  This line appears in two areas of the Start G-Code.  The first is for the purge line and the second is for the actual print.  The portion which controls the initial Print height is this part here, so you can either increase it if it’s too close or decrease it if it’s too height up.  The good news is that because you’ve already set the Z-offset using the menu options, you know that this value will be within 0.05 increments. So you’ll make your necessary changes and do your print test to verify your results.  Making adjustments with this method does make it much more accurate and for those of you who are even slightly familiar with G-code this might be the best option.

With your bed levelling complete, you should now be able to have a much better chance of your 3d prints succeeding.  For the full PDF guide which includes diagrams and more detailed instructions, you can find this here along with other guides for many other machines as well.