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Ender 3 V2 – Upgrade the Firmware



Updating the Firmware

In this article we’ll be updating the firmware on the Ender 3 V2 by Creality and although these instructions are for the Jyer’s version, this will work with the one from Creality’s main website as well.  I’m in no way responsible if any damages may occur, so do this at your own risk.

So there’s a couple of reason why you might want to update your machines’ firmware, but the main one is to fix any issues in operation, which can often include safety upgrades.  Some community versions include added functionality, as well as a more up-to-date versions of marlin.  The process will be identical for either versions of the firmware, as long as you understand some basics.

First off, there are two portions of the machine which typically need to be updated separately.   The first is the motherboard, which is normally quite simple to update, and the second is the screen, which frequently requires some form of disassembly.  I should point out that sometimes this process isn’t as straightforwards on certain machines, therefore you’ll always want to do some research before undertaking this task.

There are two different types of motherboards for this machine, and we’ll need to know which version ours is prior to uploading the firmware.  To find this out, we’ll open up the base of the machine and read the labelling that’s on the motherboard.  In my case, it was the 4.2.2. So that’s the version I will be downloading.

EDIT:  The Ender 3 V2 started shipping 256k boards with some of their machines, and this affects the safety measures in the firmware. The PDF guide has been updated, but you must find out which CPU you have prior to doing this update. Here’s a link to the article which was brought to my attention.

In my testing, I did to update the machine with a larger 32gb card, however if you do run into issues you may which to switch to an 8 GB card instead. Once you’ve formatted the card to FAT32, you’ll download the files from either the Creality website or the GitHub page.  In my case I’ve chosen to use the Community version since it includes several additional features which include but aren’t limited to the following.  Manual levelling menu, Z offset menu, Pre-heat menu, Change filament, Support for the M600 command, Manual Mesh Levelling and an advanced menu which may be updated in the future.

First we’ll download the .bin file that’s going to be used to update the motherboard and that’ll be one of these files here.  The files all follow a simple naming convention to make it easier to tell which option is the most suitable version for your machine.  The first part of the name refers to the machine, which in this case is the Ender 3 V2.  The second portion is the levelling method followed by the probing layout and Motherboard Version.  If you’re looking to use the stock version, then you’ll want to choose the default version. In my case, I wanted to install the default version since I would be updating to a BLTouch at a latter date.  Now that we have the motherboard firmware downloaded, we can now download the folder update for the screen.  For this, you’ll scroll down and download the source code for the machine.  Once you’ve downloaded this folder you’ll unzip it and go to Marlin + Display Firmware + Firmware Sets where you’ll pick the version that you want to use.  In my case, I picked the DWIN_SET (Gotcha) version for this update. If you’re updating with the Creality versions, then all the necessary files will be within the Zip folder that you download.  

You’ll copy the .bin file to your SD card once it’s been formatted to FAT32.  Turning off your 3D printer, you’ll insert the SD card into the card reader, then power back on the machine.  It will take a while longer to boot up, but once it’s finished loading the screen, the update should be complete.  With the main motherboard updated, it’s now time to update the screen as well.  In this case, updating the screen is optional, but I highly recommend doing it since it solves the contact issues which were present in the original version.  Make sure to reformat the card again before copying your DWIN_SET (Gotcha)  file to your SD card, you need to rename the folder, so you’re left with just DWIN_SET as the name.  After turning off the printer, we’ll lift the screen out of it’s stand and turn it over to unplug the cable.  Once that’s completed, we can then unscrew the cover and use a prying tool to remove the panel.  You’ll notice an SD card reader, which is where we’re going to insert the SD card into.  Simply turn on the machine to start the updating process.  In this case, the screen will change to an orange colour once it’s finished updating.  Simply close everything back up and put everything together, and you should be ready to go.  One of the nice features in this update is the ability to change the interface colours to which every one’s you want.  As you can see, I’ve begun playing around with these and many other settings to get the best results for this machine.

Personal notes

Supplies

  • Micro SD Card (8GB or more)
  • Access to Computer

Important notes

  • Check Board Number (open the machine)
  • Check CPU (512k swapped with 256k), 256k should only be updated with Creality firmware
  • Micro SD formatted to FAT32
  • Update motherboard + Screen

Ender 3 V2 – How good is it?



Review

In today’s article, we’ll be taking a closer look at the Ender 3 V2 by Creality and see where it stands in today’s market.  I purchased this machine with my own money in order to do this review, so everything you see here is based on my own opinion.  

This is the updated version of the original Ender 3, and it does seem like the company may have implemented some customer recommendations.  First off, this machine does use silent stepper drivers, which greatly reduces the amount of noise during operation.  Very important to note, however, is that the stepper drivers are soldered to the board, making any future replacements or upgrades more difficult with this main board.  Although the motors moving the machine are silent, the fans which cool all the various components are not, and this should be taken into consideration. A great addition to this machine is the fuse for the main power input that’s located on the motherboard. This is the first time I’ve seen a company implement this safety feature, and I certainly hope to see other companies do so as well.

With the screen now fully enclosed, it also has a new modern interface which makes it easier for new users.  The one downside with this interface is that some functionality is no longer available with the more modern versions of marlin.  In this model, the screen uses a knob to control the interface, which is perfectly functional if perhaps slightly outdated. There is an issue with the contrast levels on the screen, thereby making it difficult to see what’s been selected.  This is especially prominent when looking at the screen from an angle which is to the side.

While the original print bed was flexible, it has since been upgraded to a glass bed, which is far more durable.  With a glass build plate, the prints will almost always release once the surface has cooled down, however if this isn’t the case you can use your filament cutter’s to help leverage the corner just enough to release the pressure or fit your spatula underneath.  During my testing, I found that most prints released without any issues after the first couple of prints. In most cases, unless you’re filling up the bottom surface with a large print, this is rarely an issue.  

Like most machines which use a very basic hot end, this one uses one which is prone to heat creep at around the 230 degree.  I highly recommend upgrading the standard Bowden tube with a Capricorn one to help prevent issues in the future.  Because of the current mounting design, it is fully compatible with the Micro Swiss all metal hot end and doesn’t require any modifications other than a firmware changes.  Creality has since released the Creality Sprite extruder upgrade, which is supposed to be compatible with this machine.  Since I have yet to test that particular upgrade, I can not say whether it’s worthwhile.  The cable for the hot end does tend to get caught if it isn’t properly secured.  In my case, I simply used a zip tie to fix the issue by attaching it to the adjustment screw of the extruder feeder.   

The power supply is incorporated into the base of the machine, unlike the original Ender 3.  It’s also been upgraded to a genuine Meanwell Power Supply, which makes it more reliable and safer.  Unfortunately, this machine in particular uses tinned connections, which I would highly recommend you replace since they could pose a safety hazard.  Like most of these companies machines, this one in particular does have properly functioning thermal runaway protection enabled. The only ventilation for the power supply is where the intake fan is located and is something that I would like to see revised in the future.  All the components, although they are properly contained, are fairly segmented in their locations. For instance, the power supply has its own enclosure as well as the motherboard.  While this isn’t really a problem, is can be inconvenient when doing repairs since you have to open up two different compartments within the base of the machine.

This machine uses only one Z axis, which is fine with this particular set of features.  If you’re looking to add a direct extruder, however, you will want to upgrade to a dual Z axis setup since the X carriage is very easy to move.  Because this machine comes with a Bowden tube setup, most of the weight is taken off the X carriage, and this hasn’t been an issue for me as yet.  

So how would I rate this machine overall?  Well I’ve used this exact model for both my contract work as well my own personal projects for well over a year now and can say that I’m very pleased with its operation.  Other than some very minor tweaks, it’s been my go-to machine for anything that fit’s it’s build size.  It’s for this reason that I give it a solid 8/10.  For the price, it’s well worth the money, and I’ve actually been debating whether to pick up another.  But is this the best that this machine has to offer?  Well, I’m going to be doing a series of upgrades to see which one’s might be worth it and comparing it to the newer release, so keep an eye out for that article.  

I’ve started creating downloadable support files and mods for the machines I’ve reviewed, so if you’re looking from some additional information, I would suggest you follow the link in the description below.  Thank you for watching, and I hope to see you again soon.  Thank you and take care.

Highlights

  • Tinned Wires
  • Glass Build Plate
  • Bowden Tube Setup
  • Thermal Runaway IS active
  • Meanwell Power Supply
  • Screen is Moderns with Turning Knob
  • Silent Stepper drivers are soldered

Mods Article Link

3D Printing a 15-Foot Dragon – Part 3 Printing





Transcript

Hello everybody and welcome to another video. Today is the third instalment of this miniseries, where I undertake the challenge of 3D printing a 15-foot dragon. In the last video, we took the concept art and turned this into a 3d printable model, from which could start the printing process.

At the time of starting this project, I had just gotten the CR30 which I had pre-ordered during the Kickstarter project, so after doing some initial tests I believed I was ready to begin printing. I therefore took my STL files and loaded these up into the slicer to begin testing my prints. From the beginning there were changes to be made to the models since there were certain areas which were printing incorrectly. After thickening up the wall and double-checking them in Cura to get rid of any artifacts, as I was able to proceed to the next stage.

Now by the time I had received this machine we had reached the warmest period of the year and with multiple machines running at the time I had to contend with fairly high temperatures along with much higher humidity level. The average temperature in my apartment was around 5 to 8 degrees warmer than outside, and that was with a poorly functioning air conditioner running at mid-power. The print bed adhesion was severely compromised as a result, not to mention that the filament I had purchased came in two different batches. Despite ordering the exact same filament, both batches required completely different temperatures. So with the sweltering heat I did my best to get the prints going for this machine, however things would prove far difficult than expected.

After a couple of successful prints, I began to notice 2 things. The first is that the prints weren’t sticking to the bed, and the second was that the prints were getting worse the more I printed with the machine. After several failed prints dislodged themselves from the print bed, I eventually figured out that I needed to wipe down the surface of the machine in isopropyl alcohol. The second batch of filament required a minimal hot end temperature of 210 along with a slightly higher build plate temperature. Although I had finally gotten the prints to stick down, they were still getting worse. After having tried changing the retractions, ooze amounts, printing heights, and temperature just to mention a few, nothing seemed to work, so I tried re-loading a previous file that had successfully printed. When that print also failed to complete I knew that the issue was mechanical in nature and after a month and a half of troubleshooting the answer finally came during an awful print failure. The extruder pressure was clearly too tight, since it had pushed it through the Bowden tube itself. I must admit, this is the first time I’ve ever seen this happen. After replacing the Bowden tube, it was here that I discovered what was causing the lack of material to extrude. The tip of the Bowden tube has burned and deformed due to heat creep. I ordered myself some Capricorn tubing and replaced it with this higher quality option. With this completed, I was finally able to extrude material once again and there was a remarkable improvement on the print quality. This meant that the higher temperatures of the new filament had caused excessive amounts of heat to creep up the hot end. With the 3d prints finally completing, I began printing the rest of the plates for the dragon.

Prior to beginning the full sized print of the head, I began fine-tuning my measurements in Blender with small scale resin prints of these parts. This allowed me to go through many alliterations at a quick pace prior to committing to the full print. This saved me several weeks of work, since I clearly had to make changes to my tolerances before proceeding to the full size. With these changes completed, I was now ready to start printing the final piece.

Throughout the printing process, I ran into constant issues with the time-lapse footage, but this was nothing in comparison to when it came to printing the full sized head. You see this portion was a 5-day print which included the jaw, top portion of the skull and the connector. I’m sure you guys can guess which part had an issue. If you guessed the top of the skull, then you would be correct, since the cable to the hot end got caught along the frame and caused the machine to start releasing random strings of filament. After this, I zip tied the cable to prevent this from happening a second time and attempted to restart the print where it left off. This is where I discovered the that machine itself seems to have a procedure in place to move the Z axis prior to starting any print, which in this case was what I wanted to avoid. In the end, I solved this issue by starting the print where it left off and manually aligning the print onto the bed while it started extruding filament. I believe this only worked because the head was already so heavy that it had enough weight to stay in place during the print. Although I did end up with a significant offset, the end result would still work once it was filled in.

With all the portions printed, it was now time to begin finishing and assembling the pieces prior to the painting process. But that will be a story for another day. I hope you guys enjoyed the journey so far, and I hope to see you guys soon. Thank you and take care.

CR10 Smart – Extruder Upgrade



Instructions

In today’s article, we’ll be covering how to replace the Feeder Extruder with the MK-8 on the CR10 Smart.  I purchased this upgrade kit with my own money for this upgrade, and as always do this mod at your own risk.

Now this feeder has a couple of good features which will make both this machine easier to maintain and more durable in the long run.  The stock feeder, has for many users of both the CR-6 SE and CR-10 Smart, caused quite a few issues due to its lack of durability and design.  Although the stock extruder has a convenient release mechanism for the filament, all the parts are currently made from a plastic which is prone to wearing over time, not to mention that the closed design makes it difficult for maintenance overall.  The MK-8 on the other hand, is an open design which is much simpler to assemble.  The model that you see here is also made from all metal parts, making it a longer lasting product.

So before we begin, I’d recommend laying out all the parts so that it’s easier to see everything as well as ensuring that we have all the required components.  For this kit in particular, there are 4 different screws, some of which are very similar in design.  If you have any filament that’s currently loaded, you’ll need to remove this prior to installing the components.

With the machine turned off, we’ll remove the old feeder from the machine by loosening the screws on the top cover.  We can then take the second set of screws out while holding the motor in place to prevent from damaging the build plate.

The first part we’ll put together is the adjustment arm, since this is easier to address while the part isn’t currently installed. For this we’ll need the washer, U-bearing and the M4 Screw that we’ll assemble into this portion of the arm.  You want to make sure that the screw is tight enough to hold the U-bearing in place, but not tight enough to prevent any movement.  We’ll then add one of the next set of screws (There should be 3 of them, but we’ll only be using one for now), which will help hold the spring into place later on.  For the baseplate, we can pre-install the Bowden tube connector.  In this case we don’t need to adjust the extrusion gear since it should already be set to the correct height, however you can check this by inserting some filament when this is fully assembled.

Using the Flat top screw, you’ll attach the motor to the baseplate and use these remaining 2 screws to fully secure it into place. The arm has a small metal piece which is designed to allow the adjustment arm to rotate freely, and we’ll put this in now before we add the tensioning spring.  This small component (looks like a screw but isn’t) is what allows us to adjust the tension on the spring, and goes together.  It’s easier to insert the spring first followed by the attachment screw and this should be pretty easy so long as you push these two portions together as you do so.  Make sure to tighten the attachment screw all the way to ensure a tight fit.  With this complete, we simply need to attach the Bowden tube and secure with the claw clamp.  


Compared to some machines, this model does have the ability to adjust the tension on the filament, but in most cases you simply need to tighten this slightly since too much can cause the filament to puncture the Bowden tube.  In general, it should be just tight enough to push the filament through, but be able to skip if there’s an extrusion issue.  So long as you’ve installed a Capricorn Tubing, you shouldn’t have any issues with heat creep in the extruder.

Personal Notes

  • MK-8 All metal Extruder
  • Lay parts out Prior to assembling
  • Keep the Extrusion Gear in place
  • Tension should be just enough to push filament through

CR10 Smart (Regular) Mods

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