Simax -DIY Surprise?????Oh Boy

In this video I started going over a new machine that I hadn't head much about only to be surprised by what I found. Since my findings were so surprising, I creating this initial review to discuss my findings and explain who this product might be for.


Well this was an interesting 3d printer kit for sure and you’ll definitely want to stay until the end to see just how interesting it got. So to preface this I did buy this machine with my own money and haven’t been paid to do this review so everything you see here will be based on my own opinion.

  So to start things off, everything was well packaged and the instructions were surprisingly simple. They were so simple in fact that I was concerned, however they were well suited for the machine design as we’ll soon discovered. Opening up the box, the instructions came with a clear warning to remove the hotbed with the XZ module together and this was for a good reason. In order to simplify the both the assembly and instructions one of the connection cables was already attached. In the first layer of the packaging, you have the tool components box along with the nozzle head. In order to prevent damaging the XZ module, they’ve added zip ties to keep these together. You’ll want to remove as much packaging as possible before lifting the base and frame out as you can see here. In the end I removed the entire packaging so that I could flex it around the parts and this is most likely the easiest method to remove the base from the packaging. In the bottom the packaging you have the control screen and the power cable which you’ll need latter. Once everything has been removed from the box this is what you’ll see. Many components have been pre-installed already which should make things easier latter on.

  As a general rule of thumb I always like to check the USB to make sure I have all the information that I need to begin. 3 PowerPoint presentations were included which contained the instructions on how to slice with Cura, installation and the quick start guide along with some test prints. I would highly recommend that the company creates PDF documents for their manual in future releases. If you don’t have an application which opens PPTX files, you can open these using Google Docs.

  The tools which will be necessary to assemble this machine are very minimalist so you know that the steps will be minimal which should be good for beginner’s however you’ll see why this is latter. Cutting off the Zip ties, I discovered that the Z limit switch was already attached so following the instructions I also connected the Z motor. With that portion installed, I then added the bolts to hold the XZ module in place. I always recommend installing these loosely until you’ve finished installing the bolts on both sides at which point to can give them a final tighten. And this is where my internal Alarm bells started ringing. You see there’s no protective panel bellow the power supply and motherboard. We will talk about the implication of this latter on this video.

  You can then cut the zip ties that are holding the hot end assembly in place and move it to the center for easier access. Loosen the 3 pre-installed bolts for the hot end assembly and push them in and down to fit into the backplate. You can then tighten these up again to ensure a tight fit. This portion of the machine was very well designed but I will definitely need to test it’s durability before making a decisions. It’s a novel approach which I do appreciate.

  For the front panel monitor screen, you’ll have two cables to attach. one of these will have a label which tells you it must be facing upwards so make sure to follow those instructions. Since both cables utilize separate connector types it helps to prevent the cables from being mixed up.

  When attaching the front panel, one side went in however it seems that the mental was bent slightly too short and caused the other side to stick out. This made it difficult to assemble the second side. This isn’t the only issue however, since circuitry for the board comes really close to the rest of the case. Normally I would expect some distance at least and I would definitely cover this component to prevent issues. In general, electrical boards and other important connections should be sealed in some form or another and this is a great example of this not being done.

  Plugging in the cables for the extruder motor and hot end assembly were very straightforward since each cable was a different type making this easier to put together. While this design is good for the a beginner it does lead into future upgrading issues down the road since these don’t all use standard connector types. All the wiring for this machine is short, there’s absolutely no play involved which once again makes modification more difficult.

  Although the machine came with rollers for the spool holder it didn’t actually come with a mount to hold these together properly. This will most likely cause issues and is not very functional as it currently state. I will most likely be 3D printing a separate part to help join these together since the components are good quality just the implementation seems to be a little rushed.

  Back to not having that baseplate for the electrical components. As you see, not only aren’t they covered but they are also extremely close to the surface with only about 1/2 gap in between. This makes the machine a big fire hazard and unfortunately it also means that I can’t turn it on until I’ve modified it. So testing is out of the window from the get go. This wasn’t the only issue that I found with this machine. The limit switch for the Z axis motor cable will most likely be one the points of failure to crop up first. The hole which was cut out for this cable along with the Z axis stepper motor is too far into the center and not far back enough which means that the cable will most likely be rubbed whenever the heated bed moves. This could cause a short if it comes in contact with the other electronical components such as the unsupported wiring for the hotbed. Really, the Z stepper motors should have been turned the other way and the cable should have been extended for both so that the wiring for the sensor could have been wrapped around from the outside of the machine rather than going inwards. The Z axis wiring actually seems like it be glued permanently to the Z stop switch cables which once gain makes modifications or repairs difficult.

  So after everything I’ve seen so far is this worth the money? You can technically just modify a couple of aspects and be able to get a functional machine so if you like mod constantly then maybe. Personally, I would probably recommend buying a used machine that’s known to work instead at a discounted rate. However I will be heavily modifying this to see just how far I can go. So this will most likely be a series of videos with component price breakdowns in the future. I will mention two observations that I have made about this machine. It seems like test units may not have been sent out prior to final production which is something that really shouldn’t have happened. Realistically this is something which should have been recalled however it’s a pretty good price for raw components which is how I’m going to suggest this as a possible option for experienced tinkerers. If you just want bare bone components the value is actually pretty good. But like I said previously it’s not for new users and it’s only for a small number of people who just want the basic components to work with.

CR10 V3 Fix – Cable Connection Supports

In this video I address the unsupported cables for the hot end assembly to help prevent their premature wear and tear.  This is a simple mod that should help keep this machine running for much longer in the future.

Files for Download


Hello everybody and welcome to the 3D printer Modding series. Today we’ll be addressing the issue with the cable for the hot end assembly of the CR10 V3. If any of you may have noticed the cable connections don’t have any support and there’s a high probability that the movement will cause a failure in the connection. The cables which connect to the hub are also another potential issue since they don’t have any support either. Since I would like this machine to last as long as possible, I will be making a couple of modifications to address these issues today. As always, do this modifications at your own risk and I’m in now way responsible for any damages which may occur.

  So like most modifications this one went through a couple of alliterations before a final version was determined. Since the metal supports for the xz hub were the same design as the V2 model I decided to use this to my advantage. I initially designed a mount which surrounded the cabling however this proved both difficult to mount as well as risky to force the cable within the support. It was for this reason that I switched to a open design which allowed me to use Zip ties to fasten the cables to the guide. For the hot end assembly I knew I wanted something which simply slipped over the direct extruder motor. After taking precise measurements I created a box like shape to a encompassed the motor while still keeping as much of it open to prevent overheating issues. I also designed it to wrap around the connector so I would able to add zip ties as well. Learning from my previous mistake, I made sure to keep an open design.

  After my first test I did discover one drawback which I hadn’t initially taken into account. While testing just how high up I could move the printer in the Z axis I found out that my modification did remove some of it’s Z height. Wanting to reduce this drawback as much as possible I then redesigned both the parts to help resolve this. With the new design I was able to comfortably reach a total Z height of 395. I also made sure to better support the cables with an extra bowden tube that I had lying around however you may be able to use a spiral cable wrap instead should you have some available. Very important to note is the fact that you’ll have to move the support bar on the left hand side of the machine to accommodate the increased size of the nozzle assembly. To do this, you’ll want to completely remove the top portions and bottom portions. For the bottom you’ll want to add some washer’s to increase the distance at the base. You’ll then want to move the nozzle assembly as far up as you can while also moving as far left as possible. This will make it easier to gage where to place the new connection points. In my case, I hand to realign the live bolt and move the pull rod connector over so that only one support bolt was still in place. Instead of using the spacer which came for the live bolt, I removed this and replaced it with a M5x12 screw. As long as this is properly tightened you should have no problems getting this secured in place.

  With this completed it was now time to change the Z height in Cura and begin a test print. As expected the test prints were very similar to those done previously. Since I had a 0.8 nozzle these were the results that I ended up getting. Since I mostly use the larger machines for functional parts or prototypes I often need these to complete at a farter rate.0.2

  Although I could leave this machine without these additions, this will hopefully help increase it’s longevity. As someone who uses their machines quite often this is an important feature to have since they’re an important business investment. For those of you who use yourself for both personal and professional use, I hope this also allows you to keep your machines working for a much longer time period.

CR10 V3 Fix – Filament Sensor Mod

In this video it take the existing filament sensor which has a habit of catching and replace it with a modified version which works a lot better.  I go through the installation and design process of how this modification was made.

Files for Download


Hello everybody and welcome to the 3D printer Modding series. In today’s video we’ll take the notorious filament runout sensor that comes with the CR10 V3 and modify it to be more fluid in how it lets filament pass through it. I also have a follow up video which addresses a proper cable guide for the hot end so keep an eye our for that video in the future. As always, please do this mods at your own risk and I’m in no way responsible for any damages that may occur.

  So as i mentioned in my previous review of the Creality CR10 V3, the sensor was very much holding back the potential for this machine. Because of the initial design for the filament intake, it caused a severe amount of friction to occur which in some instances prevented the proper flow of filament through the nozzle. Before trying to create a new housing i did run a test to see if I could simply replace the existing sensor with one that I had lying around however this produced an error which prevented the printing process from starting. Instead of modifying the firmware, I decided to change the housing which I believed to be the main cause of the issue. The electronics themselves were very well designed so doing this also make this modification easier for other’s to undertake.

  So the very first step was to the remove the existing component and open it up to see what was inside. Luckily, this was fairly easy to accomplish because of how it was assembled on the machine. Once you remove the 4 screws holding it in place you are immediately greeted with the electronic components. To make my life easier, I did decide to remove the filament stand, however this is not a necessary step.

  Once the electronics were visible I removed the two screws holding them in place so that I could get a better look at the housing that already existed on the machine. The first step was the remodel the area where the sensor would be sitting and once that portion as completed I was then able to focus on the entryway for the filament. The issue with the stock version is that the angles were too sharp and this was what was causing the large amount of friction. Also the alignment was slightly off and this caused the filament to get stuck in the switch portion of the mechanism. In order to address these issues, I created a gradual entry way for the filament the pass through and changed the point where the filament intersected with the switch. This produced a much more gradual entrance which reduced the friction significantly.

  With this out of the way it was now time to create the connection points in which the two halves of the sensor would meet and combine to make the shell. I then added the bolt indents to further make this easier to assemble. So after a couple of prototypes I finally had the final version that I would be installing on my machine.

  IF you decide to install this one your own machine you’ll need to do the following. You’ll need to add the two screws to hold the switch in place after which you’ll add the screws and bolts for the housing. In my case I only had longer screws available so I ended up only installing two of these across from each other. This also allowed me to place a much longer screw going in the opposite direction to attach this to the sensor mount. I added a bolt behind it just to make sure that it didn’t come off latter on. With that completed I installed it onto the machine and quickly tested it with both flexible and PLA filament. After doing my first print I can say that it’s still working quite well and I’m happy with the results. This was the resulting test cube which was printed with a 0.8 nozzle and scaled to 130%.

  Although this may seem like a simple mod I found this to be one in which I appreciate the most since the friction being produced has caused my filament to break in mid print on certain occasions. Since the filament sensor is mounted away from the nozzle it doesn’t register a break in the filament and keeps on printing which has been a issue in the past. With modification in place it should prevent this from reoccurring in the future.