Hello everybody and welcome to another video tutorial. Today we’ll be addressing the question that some of you had in the past as to how to change the nozzle on the CR10 V3 since the housing is very tight and difficult to disassemble. Well the good news is that you can do this pretty much as easily as any other machine if you know what to look out for in the process. As always, I am in no way responsible for any damages that may occur so do this at you’re own risk.

Before we even begin removing the existing nozzle we first need to clean out the hot end and there’s a very simply method that I prefer to use for this. The main method I use now days is commonly known as a “Cold pull”. Not only is this great for cleaning out your nozzle if it’s jamming, but it’s also great for clearing out the passageway when doing a nozzle change.

Although I do prefer to use some TPU while doing this, PLA will also work, but you’ll just have to be careful not to snap it in the process. To start things off, if you don’t have any filament already loading into your machine you’ll need to preheat the nozzle by going to “Prepare” + “Preheat PLA” and “Preheat PLA End”. Both PLA and TPU will both use the same temperature settings in this case. Now with TPU you have the option of tying the end into a knot which will make it easier to remove later on, so we’ll cut a piece off that’ll be long enough to feed through and feed it into the hot end. Just make sure that it’s a little longer so that it extrudes slightly. Remove the part that extruded from the hot end and begin cooling down the machine by going to “Prepare” + “Cooldown”. The hot end should be at its normal room temperature before continuing to the next step. Once it’s Cooldown completely you’ll restart the heating process while tugging on the filament at the same time. As the hot end heats up any residue will be dislodged when the filament is pulled out at a low temperature. As you can see I did this process with both TPU and PLA with the same results. Once again just make sure not to snap the filament while doing this step.

For the following steps here’s what I recommend you pick up for the nozzle change. While some of these are optional most are highly recommended. A ratchet with extender and bits, needle nose vice grips, magnetic tray, pipe joint tape and your replacement nozzle.

With the nozzle cleaned up we can now begin swapping the end so to do this will need some needle nose vice grips. Normally for most machines you don’t need this specific tool however because of how close the hot end assembly is to the components and the difficulty which can be experience in removing the outer shell I do highly recommend you pick this up. A small ratcheting socket set is also helpful however there are more specialized tools out there, so this one isn’t as necessary. You’ll want to take a close look underneath to check where the wiring is mainly located since the last thing we want to do is damage the thermistor or heater cartridge. To do this we’ll raise the hot end assembly up the Z axis by going through the menu system. Go to “Prepare” + “Move Axis” + “Move Z” and we’ll set the number high enough to easily access the hot end with our tools. As an extra precaution I would also recommend putting something on the glass bed just in case you drop a tool on the surface.

Anything after this point should be done with a minimum of one glove on your hand to keep from burning yourself. With your vice grips you’ll lock this onto the heater block while making sure to avoid any of the delicate wiring that’s on the inside. Luckily the design of the hot end assembly automatically places these components into an area where they’re less likely to get damaged. Here’s a picture of how this looks under my machine but double check just in case before clamping the vice grips in place. The nice thing about using a ratchet which has an extender on it is that the extender helps to defuse the heat far easier and prevents burning. So you’ll unscrew the nozzle carefully and remove it from the hot end assembly.

Before we begin putting on the replacement, we first want to add some pipe joint tape since this’ll help produce a greater seal within the threads and prevent material from oozing out. I personally prefer using the version which is thicker since it requires less wrapping, but that’ll depend on your preferences. This material can be found at any local hardware store or online depending on what’s more convenient. A very important note is to make sure that the hole isn’t in any way covered or that you get this material inside. This can cause some very bad nozzle jams so take care of this step. If it’s covered, simply use your tweezers to punch a small hole and roll the material around the edge of the thread. Now we simply screw back in the nozzle making sure to have it just tight enough to hold into place. Just as you’re getting close to finish tightening the hot end, you’ll hold onto the vice grips and tighten the hot end followed by slightly turning the vice grips to allow for a greater seal. DO NOT under any circumstances do not overtighten the nozzle since it can snap in the heater block. Simply remove the vice grips, and you’re ready to go.

Also, for those of you who actually want to use this video as guide keep in mind that I will be posting the transcript on my main website to make it easier to follow along. Alternatively please feel free to slow down the video by hitting the gear icon on the bottom right-hand corner of your screen and to change the speed settings.

The full playlist can be found at this link here.

The Story

Under my iron rule, I was to be betrayed by those who could not accept my greater vision. With a name that was stricken from all records, I now lay nameless and have vowed to regain my former grandeur.

By Today’s measure, I may seem overly elaborate, but within the coldness I hold my dark secret. My blade holds hungering crystals that will prey off the souls the moment they may be struck down. Every living creature contains both good and evil, but many choose to side with what the best suites their own needs. Whether it’s helping those around them, or stomping them out because of their fear, all contain an edge of darkness.

In those dark moments of hidden memories, I nibble or feast. It is this poison that drives me forwards and gives me strength, but when I’m not fed enough by my wielder, so begin the true test. Only strong wills may contain my greedy hunger because otherwise I become the master puppeteer. As I begin slithering my control within their mind, little do they realize whose decision it was all along.

Those who are wise and just rarely need worry about my gaze, for they hold little interest to me if they cannot be corruption from within. Oh, what joy I take in eroding the mind of another until they see nothing else but what I choose to feed them. So thine does their will become from my insensitive tutelage, that before long, I am all that remains within the mind. By this point, I am the wielder and master of this vessel, and I’m now free to do as I will.

How to do your first resin print


Well, in today’s article we’ll be going over what you need to know, so you can start printing as soon as possible.  

For this video, we’re going to assume that you’ve already levelled your build plate according to your machine’s instructions. And since calibration can take a while, that’ll be covered in a more in depth video later on.  For now, however, we’re going to use the recommended manufacturer settings for the resin that you purchased, since in most cases this will be a good starting point.

So to start things off we’re going to need an epic file to 3d print and these come in a variety of formats.  The most common of which is the SLT file format that you see here.  This format has remained pretty much unchanged from its initial commercial adoption in 1987. Other common file formats include OBJ and 3MF and are compatible with most slicing software packages.  I like many other creators online, I get these files from a variety of sources or make their own, but the main ones are Thinginverse and GrabCad. In order to take this files and print them, they first need to be compiled into a language that the printer can understand and this is where software like Chitubox, Prusa Slicer, lychee and many more come into play. These pieces of software turn the 3d objects into slices, which can then be printed in steps by the 3d printer of choice. Unlike an FDM printer, LCD printers print one full layer at a time, making it generally more efficient to fill the build plate.

Before opening up a 3d file, you’ll first want to set up your machine settings and get it calibrated. In Chitubox the free version, you can do this by going to “Settings” + click on the “Add New Printer” button and select from either a preexisting profile or set up your own instead. You’ll then need to set up your print settings for your material. Most resin and 3d printer manufacturers provide some suggested settings which are available online and while these are a good starting point you’ll most likely have to tweak these to get better results.   Each resin, even if it’s from the same manufacturer, will have its own settings and each 3d printer will behave slightly differently, which is why these settings are generally just a starting point. 

The slicer will allow you to see your model in a virtual representation of your build plate where you will be allowed to manipulate its dimensions, orientation and much more. Once we’ve imported the file, we’ll need to orient it so that it has enough support from the peel forces. These forces are created when the build plate lifts and away from the FEP sheet. A common practice is to hollow out the model to save on resin, and while this does help quite a bit, it also increases the peel forces by create a pocket in which the pressure can build up.  It’s for this reason that we’ll need to do two things with this model before we can start printing. First, we’re going to orient it in such a way as to reduce the amount of forces being applied while also reducing the amount of support that’s needed. While this can normally be a 45-degree angle, this will depend on the size and shape of your model. For example, the custom key caps that I make have very little peel force being applied, and I can actually print them almost entirely flat. My “Peel Villain however requires it to be printed at an angle, even with the giant drainage hole. To keep the print attached to the build plate, we add support material. These supports have a crucial role in making sure that every point on the model is connected to the build plate to prevent the prints from becoming dislodged.  Printing unsupported portions could damage your printer by puncturing the FEP sheet or damaging the LCD. If you hollow out your model, you’ll also need to consider at which points to add your drainage holes. The holes help relieve the pressure that builds up within the model itself, while also allowing excess resin to come out during the cleaning process. 

With our files properly set up, we can now begin slicing them into a format that our printer can understand. If you’re using an existing configuration, the correct file format should already be selected. You’ll then be able to save your file onto a USB drive or send it to your printer via Wi-Fi. After that, it’s a simple question of selecting your model and printing it. Before you print your files, you’re going to want to make sure that you don’t have any debris that’s left over in the vat, since these could easily damage your LCD or FEP sheet. Once you’ve finished printing, you can then begin cleaning your print and curing it. It’s much easier to clean the resin print with isopropyl alcohol or an alternative resin cleaner, followed by the removal of the support material. At this stage, you may notice that your prints are still not quite solid, and this is because they require some additional curing. You can either cure them in the sunlight or use a UV curing station for this purpose. Either one will work.  If you want to know more, I have a PDF guide for resin printing that’s available on my website.  This guide includes diagrams and additional information on the whole process to make it easier for newcomers.

Personal Notes

Article notes

  • Find and STL, 3MF or OBJ file to print
  • Install + Setup Slicer for Printer
  • Import file
  • Orient + Hollow + Support Model
  • Slice File + Save to USB
  • Print file on Machine

Recommended Reading

This guide includes diagrams, FEP sheet replacement instructions, Parts and motherboard explanations, troubleshooting tricks, cleaning, maintenance, settings, firmware + Bonus Resin Scoop and much more.


So your new 3D printer just came in the mail, but do you know how to use it safely?  It today’s article, we’ll discuss what you need to know in order to use your SLA printer safely.  This video is a follow-up to the previous SLA printing Basics article.

To begin, it’s very important to know that even if you’re using a plant based resin, they do still contain products which can trigger severe allergic reactions after prolong exposure. This exposure includes both the vapours and the liquids themselves, as well as their cleaning agents. Despite the fact that some have low amounts of odour, the fumes are still present in their environment, therefore proper precautions are still necessary. While new products are being developed by many companies to address these issues, it is best to treat them as the chemicals that they are. Waste disposal is a very common issues for those new to this hobby, as it can often be overlooked and can cause serious long term environmental impacts.

To better address any fumes from these products, it’s always best to have a well ventilated area with a constant supply of clean air, and there are a couple of ways to do this. The first is having ventilation going to the outside and while this is very efficient it may not be possible in colder environments. I personally use multiple carbon filter’s both within my machines and on the outside to help mitigate these issues. This, alongside a slightly open window in my work areas, helps to maintain a supply of clean fresh air. By making sure to keep the cover on your machine closed, and dealing with any liquid messes properly, you can maintain a much safer environment. This can be especially true if you have children or pets. In this case, you should always have these machines in a secured location to prevent any accidental exposure.

When it comes to the handling of the resin liquid itself, safety glasses and gloves are a must-have. I use two different types in my workflow. I use disposable ones when I’m working on something that requires more hand dexterity, and I use re-usable long sleeved rubber gloves for the basic print remove process. Likewise, I find that hanging this above my silicone mat helps keep a cleaner environment, especially if I clean the gloves prior to hanging them. By using a piece of paper tower, I can easily remove these without touching the top rim and can hang these safely. If you happen to get it on your skin, make sure to clean the area thoroughly with soap and water. To clean up any messes, I will use paper towels, making sure to place these out in the sun to cure any leftover resin. Because UV resin is cured in sunlight, you may wish to protect your machine from any of the sunlight coming from the window itself. I use blackout curtains and have an additional curtain around my work area to help mitigate the issue. IF you’re living in a location where you don’t have access to reliable sunlight, you can use a metal bucket and suspend a UV light above it to cure any unwanted resin. I got this one at my local hardware store and picked up this barbecue rack which works great for suspending the UV light. I go through a lot of paper towels for clean up, so I generally try to do larger batches to make my workflow more efficient. Having a paper towel dispenser makes a big difference when your gloves are covered in resin, and I would highly recommend either 3d printing one use using one that’s pre-made for this purpose.

As for cleaning up any messes that you may have, in most cases you’re going to use 99% isopropyl alcohol if possible. While you can use up to 70% it’s normally a better value to get the higher concentration and dilute it yourself. Although you can now buy less toxic alternatives, you’ll most likely want to keep using isopropyl alcohol for the cleaning of your work area, since it doesn’t leave any residue and dries quickly. For cleaning your prints, isopropyl alcohol can be reused several times if allowed to sit and separate. You can use a siphon pump to remove the clean isopropyl alcohol from the top of your container and dispose of the dirty material by letting it cure in the sunlight. To make your clean-up easier in the long term, I personally use multiple silicone dog mats, which I’ve placed in all of my work areas. Because the resin doesn’t stick to it’s surface, it makes cleanup a lot easier overall.

Now, It’s important that I tell you that some of these 3d printers have tinned connections at their terminals. This is something which I’ve actively warned user’s about and is something you may wish to check on your machine. Some companies have started taking a proactive approach with this and have been removing the tinned portions or replacing these with proper connection and ferrules, however some companies have yet to do so. I’ve noticed that some of the more recent machines from both Anycubic and Elegoo have addressed some of these, but I would do some additional research to see if that’s the case with your machine. You can see my full safety article here about what to look out for in some of the most common 3d printers.

Personal Notes


  • Greenhouse Carbon filters
  • Small internal Carbon Filters
  • Window Ventilation

PPE materials

  • Disposable Gloves
  • Re-usable Gloves
  • 99% isopropyl alcohol (70% min Recommended)
  • Protective Glasses