In this video I address the unsupported cables for the hot end assembly to help prevent their premature wear and tear.  This is a simple mod that should help keep this machine running for much longer in the future.

Files for Download


Hello everybody and welcome to the 3D printer Modding series. Today we’ll be addressing the issue with the cable for the hot end assembly of the CR10 V3. If any of you may have noticed the cable connections don’t have any support and there’s a high probability that the movement will cause a failure in the connection. The cables which connect to the hub are also another potential issue since they don’t have any support either. Since I would like this machine to last as long as possible, I will be making a couple of modifications to address these issues today. As always, do this modifications at your own risk and I’m in now way responsible for any damages which may occur.

  So like most modifications this one went through a couple of alliterations before a final version was determined. Since the metal supports for the xz hub were the same design as the V2 model I decided to use this to my advantage. I initially designed a mount which surrounded the cabling however this proved both difficult to mount as well as risky to force the cable within the support. It was for this reason that I switched to a open design which allowed me to use Zip ties to fasten the cables to the guide. For the hot end assembly I knew I wanted something which simply slipped over the direct extruder motor. After taking precise measurements I created a box like shape to a encompassed the motor while still keeping as much of it open to prevent overheating issues. I also designed it to wrap around the connector so I would able to add zip ties as well. Learning from my previous mistake, I made sure to keep an open design.

  After my first test I did discover one drawback which I hadn’t initially taken into account. While testing just how high up I could move the printer in the Z axis I found out that my modification did remove some of it’s Z height. Wanting to reduce this drawback as much as possible I then redesigned both the parts to help resolve this. With the new design I was able to comfortably reach a total Z height of 395. I also made sure to better support the cables with an extra bowden tube that I had lying around however you may be able to use a spiral cable wrap instead should you have some available. Very important to note is the fact that you’ll have to move the support bar on the left hand side of the machine to accommodate the increased size of the nozzle assembly. To do this, you’ll want to completely remove the top portions and bottom portions. For the bottom you’ll want to add some washer’s to increase the distance at the base. You’ll then want to move the nozzle assembly as far up as you can while also moving as far left as possible. This will make it easier to gage where to place the new connection points. In my case, I hand to realign the live bolt and move the pull rod connector over so that only one support bolt was still in place. Instead of using the spacer which came for the live bolt, I removed this and replaced it with a M5x12 screw. As long as this is properly tightened you should have no problems getting this secured in place.

  With this completed it was now time to change the Z height in Cura and begin a test print. As expected the test prints were very similar to those done previously. Since I had a 0.8 nozzle these were the results that I ended up getting. Since I mostly use the larger machines for functional parts or prototypes I often need these to complete at a farter rate.0.2

  Although I could leave this machine without these additions, this will hopefully help increase it’s longevity. As someone who uses their machines quite often this is an important feature to have since they’re an important business investment. For those of you who use yourself for both personal and professional use, I hope this also allows you to keep your machines working for a much longer time period.